TRAVEL / LATIN AMERICA / MEXICO / Guanajuato
Beautiful guanajuato
Located in central Mexico, this city scores very highly on the charm scale. It’s known for being the birth place of Diego Rivera (Frida Kahlo’s husband) and one of the world’s great silver mining cities of the 18th century.
Think winding cobble stone streets evocative of Lisbon. Having lunch in a manicured park, serenaded by Mariachi bands donned in black velvet with gold trim. Walking alongside donkeys carrying wild flowers, past slick modern galleries.
Guanajuato is a lively and artistic town with a vibrant social scene, comprising of a large student population. The university is one of the top ranked in Mexico and known for the arts, humanities and sciences.
an evening in Guanajuato city
I attended a Spanish guitar solo performance in a tiny art gallery. I started talking to the girl next to me, she was from Japan as a student on exchange at the local university and her boyfriend happened to be the guitarist.
After the show she introduced us, he invited us back to his place for kick ons with their friends. Outside the gallery, a group of their friends were waiting, one of them with a massive old school boom box resting on his shoulder blasting lively Mexican music. Together, we meandered through the alleys like a boy band, the sun setting behind us.
The apartment was in a mustard yellow building facing a park on the ground level. It was a tiny space and we packed in one by one like sardines, his friends dragging all sorts of instruments through the door. I took a seat on the winding staircase as his friends passed around some snacks.
The party was unlike any I’d been to at their age (they would’ve been in their early 20s)- there was no beer pong or goon bags, they were there for the music. Soon after settling in, everyone started jamming, we had double bass to my left, some brass instruments to my right, guitars in different shapes, someone was drumming on the wooden box that they were sitting on. The music moved from emotive Spanish ballads to lively Mexican folk to hip hop as someone started to rap. From start to finish, every person was playing and singing their absolute heart out, as if they were performing in front of a packed stadium.
I’m sure we would’ve started to dance if there was any space to move. It was such a special night, to have a peek into the heat-felt and expressive lives of these welcoming young people across the world. One I’ll always remember.
SAN MIGUEL DE ALLANDE
Just down the road an hour and a half away is the quaint town of San Miguel de Allande, voted “The World’s Best Small City” five times in 2017, 2018, 2020, 2021 and 2022.
It is incredibly photogenic, a real life fairytale setting, overflowing with luxurious hotels and spas. You’ll find, delicious pastries, cafes, restaurants and nightlife tucked away in narrow cobblestone alleys.
Although it is undeniably gorgeous, even as a visitor there for a day I noticed a certain atmosphere that I can only describe as – lacking soul. Everyone spoke perfect English, there was a disproportionate amount of swanky hotels and high-end spas, it looked like Mexico but it somehow didn’t feel like Mexico.
After doing some investigation, I learnt that behind its quaint neo-gothic façade, real life in San Miguel De Allande has a darker reality. There is a significant population of wealthy expats living alongside locals in poverty. The income disparity in the five time ‘World’s Best Small City’ has around 48% of the population living in moderate to extreme poverty alongside the most opulent establishments I’ve visited in Mexico.
Now I say this to give you my honest impression of the place, not to shit on expats, there are plenty of places like Puerto Vallarta and Mexico City where there is a more symbiotic relationship between locals and expats, unfortunately San Miguel de Allande just isn’t one of them.
Even knowing this, I would still encourage you to visit, it really is beautiful and their economy depends on tourism. Here are a few options that you can choose to help support the locals:
- Book a place hosted by a Mexican local over a hotel, their profile will say they are Mexican on AirBnB/booking.com, or their listing might be in Spanish
- Seek local restaurants over eating at hotels
- Buy art and souvenirs from street vendors rather than galleries
- Skip the luxury spa day
Overall I would recommend spending the bulk of your time in Guanajuato over San Miguel de Allande, to me the vibrancy of the culture and people is palpable in Guanajuato, there was a soulful feeling unique to this city that I adored.