travel / Latin America / Mexico / CDMX
Stop numero uno of my grand adventure in Latin America. Mexico City was supposed to be a pit stop, somewhere to fly into and get acclimatised for a few days. Big cities are not usually my jam. I find them to all blend into one, for me a city is a city is a city and it’s rare for me to impressed by one. I had planned nothing and went in with minimal expectations but boy was I blown away.
Unfortunately CDMX gets a bad wrap, I had people asking if I’ll bring pepper spray and my dad wanted me to hire a bodyguard, no joke. Many people back in Australia were concerned about me visiting the city alone as a female and yes there are real dangers but there wasn’t a single moment when I felt unsafe, even by myself at night.
It’s a jungle city, with leafy suburbs and huge parks. Walking down the lush streets, you’ll find modern cafes with stylish locals sipping coffee with their Dalmatians in red collars, a blend of colonial architecture with a hint of Paris, hip elements reminiscent of New York and a splash of vibrant Mexican art in both traditional and street styles.
Hostel experience
CDMX will always be a special place to me because it was the first time I stayed at a hostel. My first night I stayed in a mixed dorm at what I felt to be the riper end of the age spectrum for dorms (nearly 30). I had reservations about entering a world of 18-23 year old backpackers with smelly socks and endless nights out but what I discovered was completely different – to my surprise and relief. I was glad to have my preconceived notions shattered as I meet wonderful, interesting people my age and older. These wonderful connections I made along the way, were ultimately what made my trip.
The hostel served as an intersection of varying trips at all different lengths. Everyone was so friendly and open to sharing their experiences, some types of travel included:
– sussing out CDMX to potentially move there as an expat
– exploring during university break while on exchange in Mexico for the year
– volunteering with helping friends build hostels, build homes and schools in remote areas or for animal conservation
– writing research papers/ PhDs while on the road
– lil break with a friend/family/sibling
– remote work in many fields, tech, travel, finance, engineering, teaching, marketing, design etc.
– many with normal jobs like mine, either considering a change of career, taking a break from burn out (like me) or making the most of the time in between changing jobs
I learnt about all the different experiences people were chasing, from big cultural events (Carnival in Rio, Día de Muertos in Mexico), finding the best waves to surf, running ultra-marathons in incredible settings, to getting a van and moving slow. The options were endless and it was fascinating.
Personal Highlights
Rocking up to Departamento (bar/club) early to find an empty dance floor with two dj’s spinning disco house + dolphin noises, having the time of their lives. We proceeded to take up the whole d floor busting out some serious moves, so much fun!
Midnight street tacos on my birthday in the rain, with my new friends singing happy birthday to me in Spanish outside the taqueria.
Cool neighbourhoods I stumbled upon:
Roma Norte for the eclectic eateries in well preserved refurbished mansions, upscale food and bar scene, a home to sleek modern artisans. Super trendy, super happening. One for the foodies.
Coyoacán, once a village now a peaceful, bohemian cobblestone neighbourhood steeped with art history. Grab an ice cream from any of the parlours and take in the vivacious colours, maybe a pitstop at Frida Kahlo´s blue house.
La Condesa for the charming streets, wide avenues covered by a luscious canopy of trees, you´ll find art deco vibes with an edgy, hipster twist. Go for the taquerias, stay for the pumping bar scene, more lively en la noche.
Juárez for the brilliant local talent in CDMX, an assortment of kitchenware, ceramics, jewellery and clothing boutiques, a thriving gay scene and little korea, a bit of everything.
Unique CDMX activities:
Sunday Ciclovia, a free weekly event from 8am-2pm where they close the main roads along Paseo de la Reforma and locals and tourists alike can explore by foot, bike, skateboard, rollerblades car-free! Get’s busy after 10am. Visit their facebook page for the route and activities on offer from Tai-chi and yoga to storytelling.
Frida Kahlo’s Blue House was the one place I wanted to visit in CDMX, it went as a birthday present to myself and it was awesome. Frida was a serious badass. 250 – 270 MXN / $14 USD.
The National Museum of Anthropology for the history buffs. If you are anything like me and share a fascination about ancient cultures, how they lived and the secrets about the universe they held (that I believe we have lost), a great one to visit. 85 MXN / $3.50 USD
Xochimilco are the last remnants of ancient canals the Aztecs created. You can take a ride in colourful Mexican style gondola boats and float past mariachi bands, food vendors and have a lil fiesta! 350 MXN or $17 USD an hour for the entire boat, pile in more people for more fun and more value.
Hot air balloon over Teotihuacán the pièce de résistance, an ancient archelogical site that was the centre of an Mayan empire. You can fly over the sacred Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon and see these impressive monuments from the sky, magical. $155 USD, splurge activity but worth it.
Areas to explore just outside CDMX:
Las Grutas De Tolantongo are the famous hot springs with light blue mineral water around 3.5 hours north of CDMX, they are beautiful but very popular. If you have more time and you’re interested in waterfalls, I’d recommend going to Huasteca Potosina in San Luis Potosi instead.
Puebla is a city 2 hours drive from CDMX, a little off the beaten path but growing in popularity. It is known for a rich cultural scene and culinary hub. It’s perfect for a day trip/weekend trip to explore the baroque architecture or if you’re feeling adventurous you can stay longer can explore the national parks nearby and climb some glaciers.
Frida Kahlo’s last painting before she died – “long live life”
Safety
CDMX has a reputation for being very unsafe, this is not unfounded, I met Mexicans all over the country that had moved from CDMX due to this reason. However, in my experience and many others I have spoken to that absolutely adore CDMX, it is a generally safe place. The few that did have issues were usually partying hard, very wasted, in dark alleys at night alone etc. and that is a highly vulnerable position no matter which foreign country you are in, not specific to CDMX.
I noticed an interesting pattern, that the further the country from Mexico, the more exaggerated the perception that people were getting kidnapped left right and centre. I met so many people from the United States that visited CDMX often as a popular spot for a getaway, not with this notion that it was a dangerous, risky destination and I believe it comes down to the proximity.
Lots people from the USA travel to CDMX frequently as it’s close so there are many more true accounts of what it’s really like (fine). Places like Switzerland, Denmark and Australia where there’s a smaller population to begin with and far less people willing to visit a place thought to be SO dangerous have fewer true lived accounts and the general attitude (muggings, kidnappings, violence everywhere) is based on Hollywood, where America has been peddling this image of Mexico for a long time.
Fellow travellers from countries like these had the same experience I did, with everyone thinking they were crazy to go, that I might not make it out there alive which you realise
a) is very far fetched once you arrive and
b) hilarious to the American’s who frequent the city
There are true dangers but more in the outer districts and amongst locals, the cartel has much bigger fish to fry than stealing your iPhone. Don’t look for trouble and generally trouble will not find you.
Tips
– Take Ubers instead of taxis
– Be aware of your belongings, don’t take valuables to any big markets or areas with big crowds where pickpocketing is easier/more rife
– Stick to ATM’s in banks and airports, there are fake ATM’s/ scams that will steal your card
– Be aware of how you appear when you’re walking around, put your phone or camera away when not in use and hold onto them well when you are using them
– Avoid getting too drunk and wandering around at night by yourself
– Familiarise yourself with the neighbourhoods, I always ask the hostel/hotel which areas I should avoid, which are fine
– Get travel insurance
There is so much to explore in this amazing city, I hope this post has helped dissolve any worries you may have had about visiting, I can’t wait for you to find your own tucked away treasures in CDMX!